The town of Ensenada was enjoyable and we found the people very friendly. Great fish tacos to be had! When the mega cruise ships show up in port, the carpets are rolled out for the gringos who buy the tourist stuff, but once they depart, things quiet down and Ensenada becomes once again a sleepy fishing village.
The most interesting characters were to be found in the marina itself. There were quite a few ex-pat liveaboards who call it home, eagerly assisting other cruisers as they pass through on their way south.
Cruiseport Marina, Ensenada Mexico
One fascinating boat in the marina was Lun, a wooden Gaff-rigged ketch from 1914 skippered by Capt. Ulysses Buquen of the Greenshank Sailing Cargo and Cruise Lines. This ship was being outfitted in traditional gear and rigging for a voyage down the coast, through the Panama canal and on to the Caribbean to pick up cargo of coffee and rum. This sailing ship will then cross the Atlantic by sail alone, just as it would have 100 years ago, delivering it's cargo to European markets.
Capt. Ulysses Buquen of Lun
Lun, a 1914 Gaff rigged ketch
We set sail from Ensenada on 01/26/2016 on a sunny day and light winds. Dolphins and whales accompanied us along the coast as we sailed south after heading about 40 nautical miles out to sea.
Unfortunately, Murphy caught up with us after a day and a night of sailing. our generator stopped working and without it, we would consume too much energy with the autopilot and navigational equipment, not to mention the water maker and refrigeration systems. We debated about whether or not to put in to shore and have parts mailed, but decided it would be best to return to Ensenada in case major repairs were necessary. So we turned around and sailed back a day and a night, arriving back in Ensenada on the 28th. Fortunately the capacitors were the only parts needed, and a local mechanic procured them overnight for us.
We set sail once again on 01/30/2016. This time it was just Chris, me and the kitties on the voyage. Matty left to join her boyfriend backpacking in Columbia since the delay would not allow enough time for her to fly out of Cabo San Lucas in time to meet him. We will miss her smiling face aboard Sirena and wish her luck in her walkabout!
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