Pacific Panama Marinas and Anchorages

Nearly a month after leaving Costa Rica we finally arrived in the Panama City area.

LoWang and Ninja check out the guide as we cross over to the Panama City area.

We cruised over from Isla Tobago after a fun weekend, crossing carefully between all of the giant container and tanker ships sitting at anchor awaiting their turn to transit the nearby Panama Canal.

Our first stop was Flamenco marina so we could check in at the nearby Port Captain's office and get the lay of the land. We found the marina to be rather run down with crumbling docks and quite a bit of surge, especially where they place the sailboats - out by the entrance. There was an extraordinary amount of driftwood and trash floating around, whole stumps and large logs creating a hazard. Why the marina staff does nothing to remove this is puzzling, but the general attitude of "do nothing unless absolutely necessary" predominates in Panama as it does in most of Central America. The gates are locked for security, but unlike most marinas where the tenants are given a card or key to pass in and out, here we had to go to the gate and wait (or yell) for a guard to unlock it and let us in or out, quite a pain. The facilities were ok, but nothing worth the $3/ft/day charge, so we did our check in and left the next day.

Checking in was pain free with the necessary offices located next door to the marina office in the second floor of the Duty Free shops. We checked in along with S/V Prism and between Shannon and I we were able to understand most of what was spoken in Spanish and make ourselves understood as well. Conveniently Jon had his camera with us when it came time to get our Mariner's Visa since a photo is required for the year long permit. But now we are all set to sail in Panama for up to a year.

Next stop was the small bay outside La Playita marina on the opposite side of the island where the wakes from the constantly passing large ships entering the canal channel create a very rolly anchorage. For a few days while we made some repairs we stayed at La Playita marina, but even inside the breakwater there is tremendous surge and three of our dock lines were damaged from the chafing in spite of my best efforts to prevent it. This marina is more user friendly with easy access, cleaner water and the docks are new. The cost is a little more reasonable as well at $2/ft/day cost, but still too expensive to stay in for very long.

As soon as our repairs were completed, we headed out to the other anchorage on the opposite side of the Amador Causeway, which connects the island to the mainland, where there were many dozens of boats at anchor in an area with a beautiful view of the Panama City skyline. We found some to be vacant while others were preparing to transit as we were. Eventually we would be joined here by S/V Mabrouka and S/V Gaia as well as S/V Prism.

Anchorage near Amador Causeway, Panama City 

The anchorage was relatively calm, but still had a lot of wood and plastic debris floating around. The worst part was the lack of place to land a dinghy, the shoreline being steep and rocky and the old dinghy dock having crumbled long ago. Our remedy was to take turns using the dinghy to get to shore, one person staying with the boat to run the others back and forth.

Makeshift dinghy dock at Amador anchorage...doesn't quite work when you have 16 ft tidal range.

Soon we'd found an agent to assist us with the transit paperwork and we were ready for the BIG DAY...our transit through the canal!

Ninja relaxes on deck at anchor.

Along the Pacific Coast to Panama City

Sailing along the coast of Panama was an enjoyable experience. We had great wind as we sailed SE and approached Punta Mariano, the southern most point of our Pacific journey. At one point we encountered a "super-pod" of Pantropical spotted dolphins, hundreds of them surrounding us in an area of about a square mile. Some were swimming in small groups, some were hunting - swimming rapidly in circular patterns, and others seemed content to ride our bow wave and just check us out. We also chanced upon a very large Humpback whale swimming quite close to us as we passed through the dolphin pod.

Rounding Punta Mariano we turned northeast into the anchorage at Punta Guanico, where we stayed for two days while Jon of S/V Prism helped Chris change out the starter on the generator. Shannon and I explored ashore, but found not much more than a small restaurant and a few homes here. Leaving the bay with generator repaired, we rounded Punta Mala, so named for the bad conditions to be found there when the current and wind are working against you. Fortunately for us it was not too bad. Yes, we had an adverse current of a few knots, but we had a fairly strong southerly wind to assist us. We sailed around the point and headed northwards, passing Isla Iguana in a squall that brought 30 knots of wind and whiteout conditions. I watched the storm approach as we neared the island, which is low lying and home to many Great Frigatebirds. They dipped and swooped lower and lower as the rain came down and the wind picked up until eventually they flew only a few feet above the water, hundreds of them surrounding our boat as we sailed onward through the clouds and rain, the island now completely obscured from view.

Our plan was to head to a little used anchorage just inside the mouth of the mangrove lined river Mensabe, about 12 miles past Isla Iguana. We needed to wait for the high tide, so when we arrived early we floated around the entrance and relaxed for an hour waiting for the water to be deeper upon our approach. Legend has it that an ancient Spanish ship became stranded here and while offloading the contents of the ship in order to lighten the load, a gold statue of the Virgin mary was lost overboard. The chief of the local Mensabe tribe tried to dive and recover the statue, but he drowned in the river. Henceforth it was named in honor of his tribe. It is unknown if the gold statue was ever recovered, but likely it was at some point.

We motored slowly into the entrance at near high tide and passed through a large field of moored fishing vessels before being directed by a local in a panga to tie up to a mooring ball at the back of the field on the southern side near the mangroves.

Checking the depth, we felt comfortable with 34 ft, but by low tide we were only sitting in 18 ft of water. We spent a restful night here.

Morning brought the next high tide and after watching crocodile slip past us as we drank coffee at dawn we released the mooring line and passed out of the river with the tide.

A beautiful old ketch lay stranded along the southern shore, reminding us of the dangers of the shoals.

The wreck of an old 100+ ft long Ketch sits stranded on the beach outside Rio Mensabe, Panama

The town and dock at Las Tablas. The dock was built in 1924.

Fishing boats moored in the mouth of Rio Mensabe, Panama.

  Next stop was Isla Otoque, where we found good anchorage along the NW shoreline  near the small village.

In the morning we made the final passage on to Isla Taboga. This small island is a favorite weekend getaway spot for Panamanians who find it convenient to take the ferry over from the Panama City area, about 7 miles away. We tied up to a mooring ball that was described to us as "first come, first served" while S/V Prism anchored on the northern side of the small beach. Getting to shore proved to be a challenge with the extreme tides and the dock which was only large enough for one or two boats, which were subject to removal when the ferry arrived. We hooked up with a local fisherman and got permission to tie up for a couple hours between scheduled ferry arrivals.

Today the picturesque colonial-style town sports various restaurants and bars and a nature preserve, but during the French canal building period it was a hospital island for patients suffering from malaria and yellow fever. Among those lucky few who recovered here was the French Impressionist painter, Paul Gauguin.

Up the River to Puerto Mutis, Panama

Our journey took us next to Isla Cebaco were we spent a rainy night anchored in the very protected bay along the SE side of the island near some moored fishing boats. There was, as promised, a remote refueling boat where some of the locals get fuel without having to make the long journey up the Rio San Pedro to Puerto Mutis, but when we were told the price of the fuel, about $5.50 USD per gallon, we declined. So next morning we headed around the western side of the island towards the wide mouth Bahia Montijo, where the Rio San Pablo and Rio San Pedro join to flow towards the Pacific Ocean. Keep in mind that all along this coast of Panama the tidal range can be 15 to 18 ft and there are many shoals in estuaries such as this one where the hard rain moves sand on a seemingly daily basis.

We entered the bay on a three quarter rising tide and moved slowly following the waypoints in the Eric Bauhaus guide, which we have found to be very accurate throughout our journey thus far. Slipping past Isla Leones we saw small homes dotting the island and fishermen in dugout canoes.
Skirting our way past shoals and rock hazards we made our way along Isla Verde where an old pearl diving submarine is supposed to be wrecked, but we only saw multitudes of Pelicans perched in the trees.

The river narrowed and the current picked up as we moved further upstream towards Puerto Mutis. Eventually we found the small settlement perched along the Port side shoreline, sporting a two story building with a restaurant upstairs and a fuel dock and kitchen on the first floor, followed by several other small buildings and a boat ramp surrounded by a shallow mooring field of fishing boats. Launching our dinghy we ventured ashore and asked around for the best place to anchor the boat since the tidal change would be drastic and the channel was rather narrow for exploring with our depth finder. Upon the local advise we avoided the mooring field and anchoring area called for in the book, and instead found good depth (15 to 28 ft) and holding just downstream from the fuel dock/restaurant building.

Here we stayed for two days while making a provisioning run to Santiago, a bus adventure unto itself.  Santiago turned out to be a good sized city with a great supermarket right at the end of the bus route, so we were once again well provisioned. Since it was a weekend, we planned to stay and check in to the country on Monday, but our generator stopped working unexpectedly. The problem turned out to be the starter. We worked on it for hours and late that evening got the generator going, but were afraid to stop it for fear we would not be able to get it going again, so we took off on Sunday morning with the outgoing tide headed for Panama City, still four days away. Without the generator we would have no way to run our refrigerator or keep our batteries sufficiently charged, or to run the A/C - a definite problem on our boat where we are accustomed to sleeping in air-conditioned comfort instead of sweating it out.

Leaving with the tide.

Exiting Bahia de Montijo on our journey towards Panama City, still several days away.

Island Hopping Pacific Panama

September 13, 2016 log entry...

"A large storm system moved through yesterday afternoon bringing about 8 inches of rain in a downpour so heavy we could not see the shoreline. Our anchor held well in the 25 to 30 knot winds gusting to 35 knots and we were very glad to be safely tucked into the anchorage instead of sailing."

After spending a little over a week enjoying the island, we left the next morning after the storm headed for Puerto Mutis for fuel and provisions. This allowed for a more leisurely trip along the coast to Panama City where we plan to check into the country. 

Along the way we were joined by three HUGE Bottlenose dolphins swimming along our bow wave. These were by far the largest dolphins I've ever seen, all three stretching well over 11 ft, the length of our dinghy, with many marks along their backs evidencing encounters with other boats and remoras hitching a ride along their bodies as well. At least one of them appeared to be advanced in pregnancy, her body so rounded that it would have taken the joined hands of two adults to reach around her. They appeared to be very old and I nicknamed them the Three Sisters. Although I usually go running to get my camera when the dolphins show up, I was so entranced by these particular creatures that I could not leave the bow. Instead I lay down on the deck and reached out towards them, waving and talking to them as they surfaced for air and swam only a few feet below me. The largest one rolled on her side, exposing her enormous body without slowing at all from our 7 knot cruising speed. As I waved and smiled and called out to her she actually nodded her head and slowly blinked at me, something I have never seen a dolphin do before. Perhaps it was my imagination, but she certainly seemed to be communicating and I felt privileged to share those moments with her. 

Later in the day we were joined by still more dolphins and this time I had my camera handy!

Crystal clear water along the shore of Pacific Panama where we were repeatedly joined by dolphins.

Sunny day but no wind as Sirena motors towards Bahia Honda, Panama

Headed into Bahia Honda where we met up once again with S/V Oleata and S/V Prism

Fresh fruit purchased from a local farmer. There is nothing here but a few open huts. People grow fruit and catch fish in the bay to survive. When sailboats arrive to anchor some of the locals row out to greet them and ask for handouts, occasionally offering fish or fruit for trade or sale.

The bay is very calm and made for a wonderful nights sleep in its protected waters.

S/V Oleata and S/V Prism at anchor with us in Bahia Honda.

Goodbye Costa Rica, Hello Panama

With our new dinghy safely on the foredeck and provisions onboard, we set sail for Panama September 09, 2016. We launched from Puerto Jimenez and planned to head around the point to Puerto Armuelles, but we were making such good time with wind and waves in our favor (over 7 knots under sail) that we decided to push on to Isla Parida where we spent a beautiful night at anchor along the Western shore.

Isla Parida, Pacific Panama

Next morning Sirena pushed on to Isla Cavada in the Archipelago de Islas Secas where we happened upon our old friends from S/V Prism and S/V Oleata at anchor.

Isla Cavada in the Secas Archipelago, Pacific Panama

Here we stayed at anchor for several days, enjoying the serene island setting. There were many dive and snorkeling opportunities around the small islet across from our anchorage as well as along the Eastern shoreline.

One afternoon I took a hike around the island and found it to be nearly uninhabited with a small resort being remodeled on the SE side and a runway conveniently stretched across the middle of the island so guests could be flown in from the mainland in small aircraft. Not too many birds here, but I did see quite a few very large iguanas, and the views from atop the island were breathtaking!

Small resort being remodeled on Isla Cavada in the Secas islands, Panama

Nearby islets made for excellent diving sites but rain created cloudy water and jellyfish were present.

S/V Sirena at anchor next to S/V Prism and S/V Oleata off Isla Cavaada, Panama

Shoreline littered with dead coral is a testament to the warming ocean temperatures.

Side Trip to San Jose

We made a trip inland to San Jose and enjoyed the four hour drive up the coast and through some beautifully forested countryside. But the most unusual and interesting portion of the trip was just south of Jaco, where locals have taken to feeding the wildlife living under a bridge...

The crocodiles in Rio Savegre are well fed by the locals and visitors who can purchase a dead chicken and toss it from the bridge. Definitely not a place to go swimming!

The road to San Jose winds through some rugged jungle, along rural villages, close to the coastline near Jaco, and then turns inland to the city where traffic becomes more congested as the urban center nears. But shopping is great there with a variety of stores, movie theaters, restaurants, and even a very American-style shopping mall.

Beach near Jaco

San Jose, Costa Rica